This article was produced by National Geographic Traveler (UK).
Just an hour by ferry from Naples, Ischia rises from the Tyrrhenian Sea in a cloak of rolling hills and volcanic rocks. For two thousand years, tourists have come here for the thermal waters, drawn by springs rich in minerals and legends. Today, the ancient traditions of spama continue in mud baths, botanical hydrothermal parks and rock pools along the sea, where hot volcanic streams bubble beneath the waves.
Day 1: Warm start & daughter of the island
Arriving in Ischia from Naples—just a 50-minute ferry ride—feels like an instant change of pace. Where Italy’s third largest city hums with smoothness and energy, Ischia Porto on the island’s northern coast moves more slowly, its rhythm shaped by its long history as a relaxing escape for Neapolitans.
Bobbing yachts, small boutiques and lively restaurants line the azure waterfront before giving way to beaches and quieter, wilder corners of the island. Hop into a taxi and follow the SP270 west towards San Montano and Hotel Della Baia, your base for the next three days in the Negombo Hydrothermal Park. Spread over 22 acres and founded in the 1940s by humanist-botanist Duke Luigi Silvestro Camrini, Negombo combines beautiful botanical gardens with access to Ischia’s legendary volcanic springs – naturally hot and minerally renowned. It’s tempting to linger in Negombo’s pools and relaxing spa treatment rooms, but venture beyond the resort and spend an afternoon exploring Ischia’s extensive hydrotherapy tradition, hailed as a medicinal aid since Roman times by author-naturalist Pliny the Elder.
A 15-minute taxi ride to the west coast town of Forio leads to the white-washed Chiesa del Socorso and more warmth at the Poseidon Garden Thermal Park, where seawater and volcanic pools overlook the sandy Sitara Bay. As evening falls, stroll through Faro’s charming old town before tucking into a plate of pasta with local seafood at a traditional inn, such as Cor Cor.
Ischia has many bays where bathers can live in la dolce vita, whether it’s sunbathing or taking a refreshing dip in the sea. Photo by Regina Isabella

Rooted in local, tropical traditions, Hotel Regina Isabella offers a variety of spa treatments. Photo by Pasquale Cuorvo
Day 2: Nature, History & healing
For millennia, Ischia’s thermal waters have shaped daily life on the island – first used by the ancient Etruscans for ritual and later by the Romans for their regenerative powers. To appreciate the natural scenery that makes it such a strong place for relaxation, start with a morning guided climb of Mount Ipomio, Ischia’s highest peak at 789m. The climb is steep in places, but worth the reward: sweeping views from the green hills to the sparkling sea, after a leisurely lunch at the restaurant La Grotta da Fiore, a mountaintop spot carved directly into the tuff rock.
Once you’ve enjoyed a bird’s-eye view of the island – and tried the local specialty, rabbit stew – spend the afternoon delving deeper into its history with a visit to Castello Aragonese on the east coast, about 30 minutes away. Inhabited since the 5th century and complete with a convent, prison and catacombs, this medieval castle is reached by a stone path on a small island. A guided tour brings its past to life, while summer concerts and festivals offer a glimpse of its modern identity.
After a day on foot, reward yourself with an evening at Sorgito Bay, another hot feature of Ischia. About 40 minutes from Castillo on the south coast, this natural hot spring cove is heated by volcanic currents that heat the rock pools to a perfect bathing temperature. It’s free to visit, and picnics are encouraged – locals even bring eggs to cook in the hot tubs. Open a bottle of Ischia-made wine and you’ve got all the ingredients for a simple, satisfying al fresco dinner.
Day 3: Mud, markets & Mediterranean life
Before dipping your toe into the warm waters of Ischia, a deep dive awaits in Lac Ammino, a historic spa town on the north coast, 10 minutes away. Known for its fango (mineral-rich mud) treatments, made from the island’s volcanic soil, this is the place to experience traditional Asian treatments at their most delicious. At the charming Hotel Regina Isabella, treatments include soaking in bentonite clay that’s aged in local thermal waters for six months to develop its healing properties – said to help with everything from cleansing to easing muscle and joint pain. You’ll feel happy with Zen, ready for a gentle stroll through the city’s pastel boutiques, a lounge on Il Fungo beach or a visit to the archaeological museum of Pithecusae. The latter is full of Greek pottery, Roman anchors and stories of ancient spa culture.
After enjoying grilled fish for lunch at a relaxing seaside location like Le Canzoni del Mar, head back to Negombo to enjoy its spa facilities and golden beaches for the afternoon. Walk between thermal and seawater pools, walk under hot waterfalls and relax in salt caves that benefit lung health. Then, once the restorative magic of Ischia has taken its toll, end your final day with a boat ride from Forio along the island’s dramatic coastline – sip wine as the sun sets and take a final dip in the short hills.
how to do it
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